Materials Man

My wife and I visited Seattle in September 2007 as part of a mini tour of the USA’s Pacific North West. We found it a very interesting city and from a photographic point of view it is something very special.

We stayed 5 nights at the Best Western Plaza by the Green Hotel in Kent, to the south of the city. Although still very much within the sprawl of Seattle the hotel was around 30 minutes drive from the centre. Travelling around was fairly easy with the Interstate 5 running north/south through the city linking all the main attractions.

Eating in Seattle is a delight with a plethora of restaurants to suit all tastes. Whilst we were there we ate Thai, Italian, American and Chinese and we could have visited many other countries on top of that. There are coffee places galore too with all the main brands competing for your business.

Shopping, if you are “into” that, is excellent with all the main stores featuring in the city centre. The layout of the shops makes wandering around quite a delight.

Outside the city there are numerous places of interest. Mount Rainier National Park, Mount Baker, Tacoma Narrows Bridge, Puget Sound, to name but a few.

During our stay in Seattle we had a day in Mount Rainier NP. This was our kinda day. Beautiful mountain scenery and so close to the city. We also had a day whale watching. We drove north to Anacortes and caught the ferry to Friday Harbor in the San Juan Islands. Our whale watching trip sailed from here and what a real thrill it was. We spent most of the time in the Haro Strait between San Juan Island and Vancouver Island and here saw loads of Orcas. Unfortunately the whales weren’t in a boisterous mood so there were no sightings and no photographs of any of them breaching but we were treated to several close ups as some of them swam gracefully past and sometimes under the boat. Part of another day was spent at the Space Needle, the iconic structure completed in 1961 for the Seattle World’s Fair. The views from the top were superb and if it had been a clearer day we’re sure you could have seen the Golden Gate Bridge!!

Photographic locations are plentiful and we went round many of them (several times!). The main ones we visited were Kerry Park, Alki Beach, Dr Jose Rizal Bridge, Pikes Place Market and Mount Rainier.

A good tip to overcome parking difficulties in the city is to drive round to Alki Beach, park for free and take the ferry across to the city.

Our only nitpick about Seattle is the weather. You can expect it to be wet a lot of the time! In our 5 days there we had one afternoon and evening that was clear, (we captured stunning views of the city with Mount Rainier in the background just to prove it!), the rest of the time it was overcast. Maybe it was just our luck or bad luck but it didn’t dampen our enthusiasm for this beautiful city.

Time for the photos. If you want to see more images from our trip visit our galleries at: http://www.pbase.com/davidleask/america2007.

Once I’d seen images of grizzly bears catching salmon I was sold.  I had to go see for myself and try to capture similar images.

After a bit of research on the web and through photographic forums my wife and I came up with only a few options where we could view grizzlies in the wild, have guaranteed sightings (well almost!), and be safe all at the same time.  We chose Brooks Falls in Alaska, within the Katmai National Park, for our adventure of a lifetime.  Further research lead us to our tour operator Katmailand at www.katmailand.com.  [As a wee aside - the salmon start their "run" upstream in June/July and that's when you see the grizzlies stand at the top of Brooks Falls and catch the salmon as they leap up the falls.  Traditionally our main holiday is in September and we wanted to stick with this.  The grizzlies hang around Brooks River until late September when the salmon have spawned and "float" downstream again into the bellies of the bears.  We had no fears therefore of going in September and not seeing bears].  We booked 2 nights at Brooks Lodge in Katmai NP in September 2007.  Incedentally, we had to book about 10 months in advance to secure places.  If going in July you need to be off your marks 18 months earlier.  Katmailand’s tour starts in Anchorage, Alaska so we chose to combine our visit to the see the bears with a tour of the Seattle/Portland area (the Pacific North West) – more of this in later blogs.

Our travel itinerary from Scotland comprised the following.  We flew Zoom Airlines from Glasgow to Vancouver, picked up a car and drove south to Seattle.  After 1 night in Seattle we flew Continental Airlines to Anchorage where we hit the sack for another night.  Next day we flew Pen Air to King Salmon then by float plane into Katmai NP and Brooks Lodge itself.  As soon as you step off the float plane onto the beach you see the bears and all the travel weariness disappears and turns into adrenaline.

After a safety induction (on bear sense, etc) we and all the other visitors (around 20 “ish”) were shown our room for the next two nights.  It was basic but perfectly comfortable.  After all, we were on an adventure!

We were able to move relatively freely around the Lodge area and beach.  The most basic rule is to stay at least 50m from any bear.  We were sheperded past any bottlenecks, where bears were on paths or in the river near paths, by the NP Rangers.  The bears always had ”right of way” and the Rangers policed this rigidly.  You feel very safe and provided you have a long lens on the camera you still get great photos.  For the photograph buffs anything shorter than a 300mm lens is pretty useless and a tripod/monopod is more-or-less essential.  Brooks Falls is about a mile upstream from the Lodge along a forest land rover track.  You had to be vigilant when you were on the track and whilst we never saw any bears en route between Lodge and Falls you could never be sure you wouldn’t.  The only saving grace is that there are so many salmon in the river that the bears don’t need to eat humans!!  Also, in September, the bears have had a summer of plentiful food making them rather plump and lethargic.

Food is not included in the package from Katmailand but Brooks Lodge has a cafe/restaurant.  Although the visitors have literally no option other than to eat at the lodge the food there is good, wholesome stuff and reasonably priced.  This was a great place to share the days experiences with other visitors.   My guess is that 80% of the visitors were photographers so there was plenty of good chat around the open fire.

It was a huge adventure for us and we were thrilled to be there, feeling priveledged to view these beautiful creatures in their natural habitat.  We will go back – next time in the July, to see the salmon leaping into the waiting  jaws of the grizzlies.

Now for the photos:

An aeriel shot of Brooks River where it enters Naknek Lake.  In September most of the bears are in this area just plucking salmon our of the water as and when they fancy.

The several visits we made to the Falls revealed only one big fella there.  He seemed to be a bit of a loner, preferring to stay away from the action downstream.  Here he is seen tearing the skin of a salmon he has just “dived” for.  The poor thing was still wriggling!

Sometimes they hunted in packs.

One of my favourite shots from the trip was this wee one peeking round the corner.  The warm golden light suited his/her fluffy brown coat perfectly.

More images can be seen here:  http://www.pbase.com/davidleask/brookslodge

Prauge is a very beautiful city, especially in December when the Christmas markets are on the go.  Here are my thoughts and musings after a long weekend trip there last December.

We flew from Edinburgh to Prague using Jet2.com – very easy and quite cheap.  You may hear “horror” stories about being ripped off by taxi drivers and to make sure you book a transfer from the airport.  These transfers will cost around £40 return.  We chose to find our own way into the city from the airport.  Get on the 119 bus to Dejvicka metro station (it’s the bus terminus so you won’t get lost) and from there take the underground into the city.  It cost us £0.80 each, eachway – a total of £3.20!  The metro, trams and buses are all linked in that the same ticket does all.  You pay about £0.80 for 75 minutes and you can jump on and off as many times in the 75 minutes you want.

We stayed at the Hotel Cloisters, a very comfortable hotel in the old town close to all the attractions.  We were 5/10 mins walk from the river, the Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square.  Highly recommended!

We found that in most places communication with the locals was very easy, with most understanding basic English (very humbling really).

Food stops / eating places were plentiful and you could eat in “any country” you wanted.  Price-wise things were not cheap, probably because of the poor exchange rate, and food/drink were costing about the same as the UK.

Whilst the transport system is excellent (and cheap) we walked a lot.  The city itself is very compact and is best savoured as a pedestrian.

Our favourite places were the Old Town Square, Wenceslas Square, Prague Castle and anywhere along the river.  Whilst you are there take in an ice hockey game, you’ll love it!

Prague Castle as seen from the river side downstream of Charles Bridge.

The Old Town Square and the Christmas Markets as seen from the Clock Tower.

A quaint street in the Old Town, taken at 5am before the throngs started to arrive.